Wednesday, February 18, 2009

It’s Bike O’Clock and All Is Well.

Last week was a bit like Xmas for the Guihot’s in Beijing as our stuff FINALLY arrived from Australia. After a mess up with the paperwork the shipping container touchdown finally came at 3pm on Wednesday afternoon, but thanks to the great customer service from the Allied Pickfords at the China end most of our stuff was unpacked onto shelves (in one form or another) by 4pm.


A quick check over the stuff found only one casualty from the uplift, that being the rear derailleur on the Giant Reign X (it just HAD to be the Beast, didn’t it?). Safe to say an insurance claim is in progress, although a simple requirement to get a quote for the work is a VERY difficult task when you can’t read, write or speak the language. Defeating bureaucracy just got a whole lot more challenging.


On the upside I was finally able to get back on the bike for a ride around the area – not too far abroad on the first trip, but a lot faster than by foot and a lot more invigorating than by taxi. Plans were to head out the day after the goods arrival, and all would have been fine except that the following day Beijing got its first rain since October 17. And not just any rain. In fact, all 100 days of denied and pent up wet stuff came down in one solid 12hr drenching (by Beijing standards anyway, Amy doesn’t think it compares in any way to the rain the day the furniture was moved out of our Canberra house). But while it was a disappointment to be delayed by a day or two, on the upside the rain did give the streets a very good clean and got rid of a lot of the lovely essences that had been building up since the last big shower (as well as removing the solid layer of frozen human throat goobers from the footpaths).


Now I’m back on the bike though, and even though I’ve only managed three rides so far there are certainly things you notice on a bike that you don’t notice in a taxi or on foot. One such example (and one that is very relevant to my continued safe biking in Beijing) is the Chinese driver’s adherence to the “Stay as far to the left as practicable” road rule. They do that well here, just like the Australian Road Rules say you should. The only ‘small’ issue with it is that they actually DRIVE ON THE RIGHT HAND SIDE HERE. It seems that that they tend to use the whole width of a two lane side street until they are forced to move over by oncoming traffic. It certainly makes riding around a fun experience (and provides for lots of near death experiences). Mental note to myself – always be on your guard and get use to riding on the right, else I’m flying home Cargo Class. And while it was great to get my bikes, I couldn’t resist buying another bike to ride around town – more on that later.

"The Grey Ghost" - my new 'reliable' townie.


On Saturday night Amy and I got all done up to the nines for the annual Beijing Australia Ball, held at the China World Hotel down in the CBD area. It was the pilot event for the new tuxedo, which not only fit like a glove but also managed to take all the punishment I could dish out to it including a few spilled drinks down the front. The ball itself was the best one I’d ever been to (which is comforting, as it cost a pretty penny), with plenty of wine on offer as well as cocktails all night. It was looking ominous very early, and it proved to be so when I’d knocked down 3 cocktails and 2 glasses of wine before we even got into the dining hall. With Jackie Chan and Corinne Grant being the special guests for the night I actually wanted to enjoy all of the night, so didn’t really want to be falling into a taxi after entrees for the unremembered trip back home – and if fate was to have its way to also meet Jackie Chan to grab that awesome Kodak moment.


Dancing at the ball. I've been told that there is a band hidden somewhere in this photo, but haven't been able to find it.


I put the cocktail drinking record on notice that night.

In the end the alcohol proved to be a welcome co-pilot in my flight for courage, as I finally got up the nerve to approach both Jackie and Corinne for happy snaps. And while I know it may surprise many out there, they both beat the cheesy picture of me with our former PM (sorry Johnny. Please don’t cry). The only thing that could have made the night even better is if I’d won the ultimate auction prize of the ball – a walk-in part in Jackie Chan’s next movie. Unfortunately it was not to be, as we were not even in the starting bid range as the prize went to a local guy for the pricey sum of 200,000 yuan (about AUD$50,000). We did though manage to win one of the silent auctions, so took away a wine fridge and case of wine for our efforts. Looks like my George Clooney looks get to wait a bit longer before being unleased onto the Asian comedy-action-martial arts movie watching general public (a very obscure movie genre I know, but romantic comedy just doesn’t fit my level of sweet talk especially after a few drinks).


Corinne and I practicing for the goldfish impersonation contest.


Trying to teach Jackie Chan my own Drunken Manatee martial arts style.

Closer to home Amy and I are both starting to get back into the exercise which has been great (although to be honest Amy is making better progress than I). Amy has been heading out early in the morning before work for a brisk walk along the canal near to us, and is very surprised at the amount of tranquillity she can find in a city with 19million people in it. She certainly has some great stories to tell from her morning trips, the most notable being the large number of ways that the locals exercise and the way they get their own little bit of cardio action happening. There are the standard forms of exercise you see back home: walkers, runners, people walking their dogs, a gaggle of women that seem to do more talking than exercise (Amy has nicknamed them Marylou, Marguerite, Cheryl, Karen and Marcella). And then there is the kind of exercise with a much more Chinese flavour – tai chi, badminton, walking along while singing at the top of their voices (sometimes to their birds that they carry in cages complete with fuzzy covers to ward off the winter chill) and one man that walks in a complicated pigeon-toed tai chi squat up and down the length of the canal – painful. As was the case in Australia I tend to be dreaming of exercise at the same time that Amy’s doin’ the real thing, preferring the evenings for my dose of lung-busting activity. It’s certainly a good deal on my part as Amy has come back and has the coffee made by the time I say goodbye to the sandman.

On the “odds and sods” news front, I am enjoying my new role as the Bar Manager for the social club – a job that seems to match perfectly my love for a good drink. While it’s not rocket science and the pay is crap it certainly is offering me the opportunity to bring all of the Badgery Street cocktail party skills out of the closet and put them to use. One cocktail night down already and a few more in the next year should allow for a variety of opportunities to mixa the elixa here in the ‘Jing (maybe even including some of the famous Jonny specials like ‘Daryl Strawberry’ and ‘Reecey it’s your birthday’).

On the weather front we got a great surprise here this week, as we woke up Tuesday morning to a very light snow. While it melted during the day, the white stuff came back with a vengeance the next night and Wednesday and Thursday it was like Lapland on the Lawn with the sidewalks of Beijing icy and wet. It did make for some interesting photos, - we have put some here and a few more to go into our Online Album. As well as covering the ground and furniture it also put a nice dusting on my new town bike, which I picked up for a whole 330 kuai during the week. Its job is to be treated mean and stay keen, and more importantly to be stolen ahead of my more expensive bikes. The Grey Ghost came pre-loaded with the obligatory bike rack but minus the basket (which I wouldn’t have liked anyway, because there were no matching spokey dokes). All it needs is the appropriately placed Astroboy decal and it’ll complete its initiation into the Guihot bike barn.



Snow in the courtyard.

Maddy has also had a social time of things – going to a birthday party (with another one on Sunday) and having 2 play dates with friends from school. She also has a number of friends who live in the same complex as us. Maddy also had another visit from the tooth fairy this week (with the exchange rate we are getting out of this seemingly continual payment fairly lightly).



Just when the canal was starting to thaw the cold snap gave new hope to the local ice skaters.

Other things on our horizon (some closer than others) is the starting up of the next darts season this week so I’m off to drink and throw sharp projectiles, and putting further thought to our plans of heading to Canada in May to catch up with Amy’s family. On the gastronomic front I’m heading down to a place called Wan Fujian next Thursday where they have the food stalls that sell the scorpions on a stick and the sea horses. We’ll see what comes of that, but I’ll be sure to take the camera and an open mind. (and for those protesting about eating Sea Horses, just think of them as the Meat Pies of the Sea – like the real Aussie pies they probably need a lot of sauce).



For reasons known only to him, a local decides to go for a jog in the snow kitted out on top with nothing more than a chesty-bonds. GO SON!

Maddy playing in the snow out front of the apartment.


The hedge along Dongzhimenwai Dajie got a nice dusting of the white stuff.


To wrap up this one a BIG Happy birthday to Mum and Dad, and to Nikki Baker and Jock all of who got that little bit closer to REALLY old age in Jan or Feb. Hope you had a great day.

Sunday, February 1, 2009

City on fire, and the mass exodus

I fear that this post is really going to fail to paint an honest picture of our experiences over the last week, which involved the biggest culture shock to our systems so far – Chinese New Year. I hope that the photos help in some way to communicate vividly what has been a crazy 8 days in January.

Following on from our last post and our return from the Longqing Ice Festival on Saturday night, we started to hear the consequences of a very lax approach to the policing of local fireworks laws as the official start time of the fireworks season started 2 days earlier than the Sunday midnight official time. Over the course of Saturday evening and Sunday we began hearing what sounded like sonic booms from behind our apartment, and at one stage we thought that BHP had moved in next door and started the groundwork for an open cut mine. Fast forward one week and we now just feel like we are living in the Gaza strip.



Crackers available in two sizes - BIG and OMG.



The Monday after our gorge trip was the official start of Chinese New Year, and the rule from midnight on Sunday are that there ARE no fireworks rules in regards to where you can set them off. It’s worth noting that there are some signs around the place marking fireworks exclusion zones, but these tended to be ignored in the madness that was 7pm Sunday evening to 2am the next day. No location was too crazy to be free of the fireworks festivities, including a following popular spots:


  • Middle of major road intersections

  • Within 10m of fireworks stalls and newspaper stands

  • In front of/underneath the bonnet of parked cars (inevitably setting a number of car alarms off).

  • Underneath awnings (causing at least one in our line of sight to go up in flames)

Without making it sound lawless and dangerous, the streets were the closest thing to anarchy I’ve ever seen this side of Devil’s Night – and we LOVED it. We were lucky to be invited to a work colleagues apartment on the 15th floor of the apartment block we were staying at when we first arrived, and at that height and with fireworks being let off directly below the window we were able to enjoy the crackers going off right in front of us. The Beijing Skyline looked absolutely amazing, and showed what can be achieved with a temporary scant disregard for one’s own safety and the safety of children (as I saw more than one 5 year old holding a cracker as it fired outwards from their hand). The walk home was like a walk in the light green, as we had to steer clear of disposed fireworks piles on the off chance that a late bloomer decides to finally shoot for the sky (so no looking down the barrel of the used firecrackers, else it could end in cycloptic tears).



Beijing from the 15th Floor - midnight, 26 January 2009.




The aftermath - major Beijing street, 2am. Amazingly it was all cleaned up by the next morning.



Me and Big Bertha.


It’s also important to get an idea of the size of the fireworks that we are talking about here. In Oz the complaints from many over the years is that all the good ones (read: powerful and dangerous and fun ones) have been banned and all we are left with is glorified sparklers. No issues on this front here. Head down to the local stand (the closest one being 150m from where I live) and I can buy a firecracker bigger than a milk crate for around $125 equivalent. Sounds a lot, but this one will fire for 5min continuously. God bless gunpowder.



Preparing the rocket for launch.

So come the evening of the 26th we also got together with fellow Aussies and celebrated Australia Day, and in honour of our home countries big one we did what the Romans do and set off some pyrotechnics. Most people either brought their own or chipped in for a stash that kept us going for a good 1hr, as we added our own little piece of Armageddon to the local festivities.

In saying that we loved the experience though, and we are certainly surprised by the stamina and resilience of the locals. We just wonder though when they might run out of enthusiasm because as much as we like the festivities, the noise and the fires (like the one that nearly set alight the building behind) are somewhat annoying and concerning respectively (jeez I feel old reading that). Adding to this is the fact that the 5th day of the holiday holds special significance, and in China that means extra fireworks.

Along with the fireworks festivities comes two other very important parts of Chinese New Year, those being the temple fairs and the mass movement of Chinese residents to other parts of the country (and in some cases out of the country) in order to reunite with their families. On the Tuesday we headed down to a place called Ditan Park which holds one of the biggest fairs, enjoying the company of a fellow Aussie I had met at the local supermarket and a Chinese family who had all the experience and know-how to give us the advantage over other Chinese Festival virgins. The fair itself was like the Canberra Show on MegaBlast 2000, with people crammed shoulder to shoulder in some areas particularly around the stalls and food areas. Having been a bit overwhelmed by the experience we decided to head home after lunch after seeing a great Chinese drumming performance led by a very spirited local girl in a tracksuit waving flags. Luckily we managed to bypass one particularly interesting spot in the park called “Slaughter Pavilion”, although the curiosity is still with me.



Sideshow Alley was in full swing at the Temple Fair, with this girl winning one prize worth her weight in teddy bear.




Such an inviting name, I'm surprised there wasn't a line up snaking all the way to the park entrance.


Outside of the festivals though it has been significantly quieter in Beijing for the last 10 days, as more than 1 million Beijinger’s have left the city to go back home to visit families. In some cases they will travel by plane, train and/or automobile (and possibly by tractor, bike and foot) for 4 days just to spend 3 days with their family before heading back again for work. The line-ups to the travel ticket centres were longer than the line-up for a laptop power outlet at a Beijing Starbucks, and had been building up for longer than previous years as people took to travelling early due to the financial crisis (likely due to cheaper tickets the earlier you travel – it’s PEAK season here).



Maddy and I enjoyed the stalls for the practicality of their wares.


On Thursday night we decided to head on down to the pub where I ‘played darts’ the previous week, and had the best pizza since we arrived (Beijing Duck pizza – GIDDY-UP!). Rather than heading straight home though we decided to wander up to “The Place”, which is a large open-air plaza with high-end (and expensive) shops either side of a centre area. To our amazement the centre area is host to a roof 75m long by 25m wide which is actually one big LED screen. Bit hard to describe the scale of this, save to say that you can’t see the whole screen no matter which way to sit unless you do a lot of cranking of the neck. It appears to be the same size as the LCD scroll used in the Olympic opening ceremony, except that it was 40m in the air and facing down. The ultimate iMax. The other great thing here (this one being temporary) was an ice skating rink which caught Maddy’s attention. After some serious negotiation we managed to get her home and headed back there last night and this afternoon for some great ice skating exhibitions from Maddy and Amy (while I sat and drank coffee). It certainly proved to be a good investment of time and $$ as Maddy is now skating by herself and doing exceptionally well.




The roof of The Place. The ultimate flat screen TV for the Tour De France (allowing you to see the start and end of the stage in the one single panorama).


In addition to all these things we have still managed to fit in some ‘normal’ tasks, the most important of which was to get ourselves a TV. On the advice of some friends who purchased one there the day before, we headed out to a shop a short cab drive away and took advantage of the CNY sales to pick up our first flat screen TV (yeah, we are a bit slow on the uptake I know). It was an adventure though, taking 3 hrs due to technical problems with the register at the shop. Good news is that they delivered it for free, a service which also includes a visit from the Sharp rep to unpack it and set it up correctly.




It took us a move to China to do it (we're a bit slow), but finally we have ourselves a purty picture box.


We also took the opportunity over the long weekend to move the food order up from our storage into our apartment pantry, which gave Amy a brief flashback of her Cannon’s supermarket days as I was given the Dummies Guide to facing shelves. Very exciting for some, but for me it was missing the professional touch that would have come if Amy still had her old red Woolworth’s jacket.




Our pantry shelves stocked with the essentials from home, all "faced" to Amy's high standards (WHAT-EVER!).


And so it was that the week again ended on the topic of food, as we headed out today for what was another great meal at The Place (backing up from a great lunch yesterday at the Bogong Restaurant – delicious, although the name gave me butterflies). We are certainly forming a list of great eating places to take guests out to when they visit, and all for diddly squat if you go the local food option. So be sure to come on over, and we’ll throw another pig’s intestine on the BBQ.



The Guihots and Beijing-based fellow Aussie heading into the Ditan Temple Fair.